Transient

 The Mugs Stump Award is given annually to climbers attempting alpine climbing objectives that exemplify fast, light and clean tactics. The awards are a tribute to the late Mugs Stump, one of North America’s most prolific and visionary climbers, who died in a crevasse fall in Alaska in May 1992.

2016 Mugs Stump Award recipients:

Revelation Mountains, Alaska. Chris Thomas and Rick Vance will return to the remote Revelation Mountains, in the southwest corner of the Alaska Range, to attempt new routes on Jezebel and Pyramid. “Our 2015 trip (supported by a Mugs Stump Award) opened our eyes to the enormous potential in this raw and unspoiled place,” says Thomas. “The peaks are guarded by absolutely heinous weather, difficult access, and objective hazards that must be carefully negotiated. It’s Alaskan exploration and alpinism at its finest!”

Kichatna Spire, Alaska. Ben Erdmann and Jess Roskelley will revisit the stormy Kichatnas in hopes of finding good early-season conditions on the South Face of Kichatna Spire. “The upper headwall will require very technical rock trickery after climbing ice and mixed terrain for 4000 feet,” says Erdmann. “The approach alone will be full value with landing far down glacier and skiing up to establish ourbasecamp.” The pair has previously established three new routes in the area.

Middle Triple Peak, Alaska. Kevin Cooper and Ryan Jennings will also visit the Kichatnas in search of a full value experience on the West Face of Middle Triple Peak. “We prefer to pack as much fun and suffering as possible into each day in the hills,” says Jennings. “We have always returned to hard mixed climbing as our true calling, and hope to combine this with aid and free climbing to connect systems up Middle Triple Peak.”

Brahmasar II and The Fortress, Garhwal Himalaya, India. The Garhwal, with reasonable access and a long climbing history, still has its unexplored corners. Alison Criscitiello and Anna Smith will journey to one of those to attempt the unclimbed Brahmasar II, and if time allows, The Fortress. “Our overall intent is to mount an expedition in the simplest manner possible,” says Criscitiello. “It is the experience of wild adventure and accomplishment that remains the most valuable objective of any project.”

Arjuna, Kishtwar National Park, India. The Kishtwar region, recently reopened to climbers after a 20-year hiatus, is still relatively unexplored. Chris Gibisch and Jeff Shapiro will attempt the west face of Arjuna, one of many tempting objectives in the area. “To us the beauty of exploration holds more importance than success or failure,” say Gibisch. “It is about the chance to experience the unknown, whether it be physical geography or within ourselves.”

Ultar Sar, Karakorum Himalaya, Pakistan. Jed Brown and Colin Haley will return to the southeast pillar of Ultar Sar, which they attempted in 2007. “The route is massive, with at least 3200m of elevation gain,” says Brown. “There is no walking terrain on the route and we expect sustained mixed climbing above 6000m, likely with greatest difficulties occurring above 7000m.” The peak itself has seen only two ascents, both in 1996.

Shispare Sar, Karakorum Himalaya, Pakistan. After three years of bureaucratic wrangling to get their peak permit, veteran alpinists Doug Chabot, Steve Su and Rusty Willis will journey to the Karakoram in pursuit of “the most promising untried line” Chabot says he’s ever laid eyes on. Shispare Sar has seen two previous ascents, in 1975 and 1995; both were aided by more than 1000 meters of fixed rope. Chabot, Su and Willis plan to climb the north face in alpine style, without fixed ropes or fixed camps. 

These climbers, and all of this year's Mugs Stump Award applicants, share Mugs' vision of climbing as a celebration of boldness, purity and simplicity. Past recipients include both well-known and relatively unheard-of alpinists pursuing objectives in Alaska, Patagonia, the Himalaya, the Rocky Mountains, Greenland and more.

 

Previous year's winners and brief reports of their trips are listed below:

2015
Thomas/Vance
Revelation Mountains, Alaska Range, Alaska
report
Gaddy/Russell/Weichert
Mt. Deborah, Hayes Range, Alaska
report
Chabot/Su/Willis
Shispare Sar, Hunza Region, Pakistan
report
Dempster/Adamson
Latok I and Ogre II, Charakusa Valley, Pakistan
report
Mayo/Wharton/Vrba
Ogre II, Charakusa Valley, Pakistan
report
Libecki/Pringle
Unclimbed Towers, Sam Ford Fjord, Greenland
report
Lund/Van Wiemeersch
Svarog and Main Parus, Ashat Gorge, Kyrgyzstan
report
Haley/Steck
Nuptse East, Khumbu Region, Nepal
report
Bennett/Zimmerman/Richey/Swenson
K6 Central, Nangma Valley, Pakistan
report
Chase/Thompson
Hathi Parbat, Garhwal Himalaya, India
report
Griffin/DeTray
Ngadi Chuli, Mansiri Himal, Nepal
report
2014
Anderson/Yi/Spaulding
South Avellano Tower, Patagonia, Chile
report
Jennings/Cooper
Mount Johnson, Alaska
report
Vilhauer/Dittman/Timpano
Barnaj II and Hagshu Peak, Kishtwar, India
report
Kellogg/Gottlieb/Holsten
Labuche Kang III and Lunag Ri I, Tibet and Nepal
report
Welsted/Kruk
Nuptse, Nepal
report
Dempster/Kennedy/Novak
Trango Valley and Gasherbrum IV, Pakistan
report
Wright/Adamson
Teng Kangpoche, Nepal
report
2013
Bennett/Zimmerman
Tahu Ratum, Karakoram, Pakistan
report
Chabot/Willis/Miller
Shispare Sar, Karakoram, Pakstan
report
Frieh/Haley/Harro
Middle Peak, Saint Elias Range, Alaska
report
Gilmore/Schaefer/Wharton
Cerro San Lorenzo, Patagonia, Argentina
report
Helander/Westman
Panbari, Nepal
report
Huey/Slawinski/Welsted
K6 West, Karakoram, Pakistan
report
Johnson/Johnson
Mount Hayes, Alaska
report
Kellogg/Gottlieb
Lunag Ri, Nepal
report
Dempster/Kennedy/Novak
Tahu Rutum and Kunyang Chhish East, Karakoram, Pakistan
report
2012
Libecki
Frank Josef Land, Russia
report
Helander/Vincik/Westman
Golgotha, Revelation Mountains, Alaska
report
Burdick/Frieh/West
Middle Peak, Saint Elias Range, Alaska
report
Pennings/Opp/Wharton
Latok I, Karakoram, Pakistan
report
Bennett/Herrington/Zimmerman
Tahu Rutum, Karakoram, Pakistan
report
Dempster/Kennedy
K7 and Ogre II, Karakoram, Pakistan
report
Su/Dongdong/Peng
Sanlian Peak, Sichuan, China
report
2011
Dempster/Cordes/Kennedy
Charakusa, Pakistan
report
Haley/Artun
Karakoram, Pakistan
report
Johnson/Wharton
Canadian Rockies
report
Wheelock/Marin
Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
report
Su/Miller/Chabot
Hispar Sar, Karakoram, Pakistan
report
2010
Haley/Artun
Mt. Foraker, Alaska
report
Caton/Olson/Rutherford
Tasermiut Fjord, Greenland
report
Puryear/Gottlieb
Karjiang, Tibet
report
Adamson/Tuttle
Moose's Tooth, Alaska
report
Grohne/Huey
Siguniang, China
report
Johnson/Kellog
Seerdengpu, Tibet
report
2009
Helander/Holden
Revelation Range, Alaska
Martinello/Kay/Sinnes
Mount Bute, BC, Canada
Haley/Wharton/Johnson
North Ridge of Latok I, Pakistan
Beckner/Anderson/Spaulding
East Face of El Lonko, Argentine Patagonia
2008
Johnson/Magro
Mendenhall Towers, Alaska
McGee/White
Southeast Rib of Mount Logan
Decaria/Smith
Kedar Dome, India
Mahoney/Gilmore/Wilkinson
Kangtega, Nepal
Anderson/House/Prezelj
Makalu, Pakistan
Turner
South Tower of Paine, Argentine Patagonia
2007
Haley/Brown
SW Pillar of Ultar Sar
Menard/Turgeon
North Face of K6
Wharton/Bowers
North Ridge of Latok I
Richards/Walsh/Ruddy
Southeast Face of Huantsan
Wilkinson/Glimore/Doucette
South Face of The Fin
2006
Turgeon/Menard
North Face of K6
Walsh/McSorley/Relph/Lussier
East Peak of Baintha Brakk (aka The Ogre)
Benowitz/Brown
North Face of Peak 10,910
Libecki/Libecki
Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan
Fraser/Olson
Southeast Face of Sunrise Spire
Easton/Owens
North/Northwest Face of Mt. Hickson
2005
Anderson/House
Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat
Nott/Varco
Southeast Face of Kamet
Caldwell/Kemple/Stack
West Face of Mount Thor
 
Cordes/Wharton
North Face of Huascaran Norte/
West Face of Taulliraju
Isaac/Owens
North Face of Kichatna Spire
2004
Geisler/Withers/Edgar Shjingu Charpa's N. Ridge
Mahoney/Gilmore East Face Mooses Tooth
Belczynski/Tomaszewski Meru Central  
Anderson/Grez/Herlihy/Selda Avellano Towers
Sarnquist/Cooney East Face Mt. Dan Beard  
2003
House/Przelj/Cartwright N. Face Masherbrum
Mitrovich/Haden S. Face Changabang
Chabot/Miller/Anker Meru Shark's Fin
Wharton/Dobbins S. Face Kichatna  
Isaac/Semple W. Face North Howser Tower
2002
Libecki Fjords of E. Greenland
Cordes/DeCapio S. Face Denali
Frimer/Berube Cordillera Huayhuash
Maddaloni/Kelly Meru Shark's Fin
Millar/Edwards W. Face Swachand
2001
Westman/Benowitz/Puryear/Turiano Kichatana Spire
Copp/Pennings W. Face Pierre Giorgio  
Davis/Offenbacher N. Ridge Shingu Charpa
Issac/Decapio SE Face Kizil Asker
Bearzi/Miller E. Face Gyachung  
2000
Cordes/DeCapio E. Face Mount Dickey
Shaw/Wagner Mount Hunter  
House/Garibotti/Twight E. Face Foraker  
Smart/O'Neill W. Ridge Trango Tower  
Libecki/Mitrovich/Helling Kok Shaal Tau Mtns.  
1999
Buhler Menlungtse/Milarepa  
Geisler/Culbert S. Face Huandot South  
Chabot/Jackson Mt. Johnson  
1998
Beckwith Team Kizil-Asker
Briggs/Reichert Unamed in E. Greenland
Hollinger/Easton S. Face Cerro Torre
Josephson/House King Peak
Roberts/Bearzi NW Face Devil's Thumb
1997
Ogden/Spitzer/Benegas' N. Face Jannu
Donahue/Gribble/Monks/Ofsanko Khyrgistan
Isaac/Taylor Mount Flap Top
House/Swenson NW Fave Denali
1996
Collum/Child/Boyd/Foweraker SE Face Shipton Spire
Synnott/Hollinger/ Chapman N. Face Polar Sun Spire
Ryan/Adams/Young SE Face Mount Proboscis
Maser/Wolf Mount Miller
Hair/Pereyra Auyen Tepui
1995
Quinlan/Anderson W. Face Bhagirathi IV 1/2
Oxx/Middendorf Polar Sun Spire
Gagner/Lovelace NW Face Kiguti
Diedrich/Pilling Alverstone/Hubbard
Reichart/Heaton Devil's Thumb/Burkett Needle
Rowe/Brooks S. Face Kichatna Spire
1994
Buhler/Kurtyka/Wielicki W. Face K2
Breemer/Jarrett E. Face Shield
Powers/Collins SW Face Denali
Byerly/Pennings E. Face Mt. Nevermore
Twight/Backes Mt. Hunter/Mt. Foraker