Transient

 The Mugs Stump Award is given annually to climbers attempting alpine climbing objectives that exemplify fast, light and clean tactics. The awards are a tribute to the late Mugs Stump, one of North America’s most prolific and visionary climbers, who died in a crevasse fall in Alaska in May 1992.

2017 Mugs Stump Award recipients:

Revelation Mountains, Alaska. Clint Helander and Andres Marin will visit the remote Revelations, aiming for a direct new route on the East Face of Golgotha. Helander, who made the first and only ascent of Golgotha in 2012 with Ben Trocki, attempted the line in 2015 with Marin; they were turned back by avalanche danger in the narrow cirque below the face...

Arrigetch Peaks, Alaska. The West Face of Xanadu, Adam Ferro, Vitaliy Musiyenko and Brian Prince's objective, is perhaps the biggest unclimbed wall in the range, looked at by many by never attempted. "We are hoping to climb it in a long push, employing big wall tactics of short fixing when possible," said Musiyenko. "Our hope is to connect natural features and free climb as much as possible."

Zanskar, India. Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva will explore the Suru Valley and attempt a difficult mixed route on the North Face of Rungofarka and a prominent rock buttress on the nearby Northwest Face of Peak 5780. Both peaks are unclimbed. "In 2009 India opened over 100 peaks for climbing after being formally closed forbidden for many years due to the armed conflict in the region," says Rousseau. "Rungofarka and Peak 5780 are among the newly opened peaks. Reports of good rock in the Suru Valley lead me to believe we will find high quality stone on these formations."

Kishtwar, India. The Kishtwar region, also recently reopened to climbers after a 20-year hiatus, is still relatively unexplored. Sam Hennessy, Seth Timpano and Jared Vilhauer will make their second attempt on the 1700-meter North Face of Barnaj II. The peak is an unclimbed gem, and, says Vilhauer, "Will provide world class ice and mixed climbing on a big alpine face...."

Karakorum Himalaya, Pakistan. Steve Swenson, Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman have their sights on a long and technical ridge on Mucho Chhish, the world's second highest unclimbed peak at 7453 meters. "The line is stunningly beautiful and safe from objective hazard, while providing a logical and challenging 3400-meter alpine style objective," says Zimmerman. "We'll be traversing a mile of ridge above 7000 meters to reach the elusive summit of Muchu Chhish."

These climbers, and all of this year's Mugs Stump Award applicants, share Mugs' vision of climbing as a celebration of boldness, purity and simplicity. Past recipients include both well-known and relatively unheard-of alpinists pursuing objectives in Alaska, Patagonia, the Himalaya, the Rocky Mountains, Greenland and more.

 

Previous year's winners and brief reports of their trips are listed below:

2016
Thomas/Vance
Revelation Mountains, Alaska Range, Alaska
report
Erdmann/Roskelley
Kichatna Spire, Alaska
report
Cooper/Jennings
Middle Triple Peak, Alaska
report
Criscitiello/Smith
Brahmasar II and The Fortress, Garhwal Himalaya, India
report
Gibisch/Shapiro
Arjuna, Kishtwar National Park, India
report
Brown/Haley
Ultar Sar, Karakorum Himalaya, Pakistan
report
Chabot/Su/Willis
Shispare Sar, Karakorum Himalaya, Pakistan
report
2015
Thomas/Vance
Revelation Mountains, Alaska Range, Alaska
report
Gaddy/Russell/Weichert
Mt. Deborah, Hayes Range, Alaska
report
Chabot/Su/Willis
Shispare Sar, Hunza Region, Pakistan
report
Dempster/Adamson
Latok I and Ogre II, Charakusa Valley, Pakistan
report
Mayo/Wharton/Vrba
Ogre II, Charakusa Valley, Pakistan
report
Libecki/Pringle
Unclimbed Towers, Sam Ford Fjord, Greenland
report
Lund/Van Wiemeersch
Svarog and Main Parus, Ashat Gorge, Kyrgyzstan
report
Haley/Steck
Nuptse East, Khumbu Region, Nepal
report
Bennett/Zimmerman/Richey/Swenson
K6 Central, Nangma Valley, Pakistan
report
Chase/Thompson
Hathi Parbat, Garhwal Himalaya, India
report
Griffin/DeTray
Ngadi Chuli, Mansiri Himal, Nepal
report
2014
Anderson/Yi/Spaulding
South Avellano Tower, Patagonia, Chile
report
Jennings/Cooper
Mount Johnson, Alaska
report
Vilhauer/Dittman/Timpano
Barnaj II and Hagshu Peak, Kishtwar, India
report
Kellogg/Gottlieb/Holsten
Labuche Kang III and Lunag Ri I, Tibet and Nepal
report
Welsted/Kruk
Nuptse, Nepal
report
Dempster/Kennedy/Novak
Trango Valley and Gasherbrum IV, Pakistan
report
Wright/Adamson
Teng Kangpoche, Nepal
report
2013
Bennett/Zimmerman
Tahu Ratum, Karakoram, Pakistan
report
Chabot/Willis/Miller
Shispare Sar, Karakoram, Pakstan
report
Frieh/Haley/Harro
Middle Peak, Saint Elias Range, Alaska
report
Gilmore/Schaefer/Wharton
Cerro San Lorenzo, Patagonia, Argentina
report
Helander/Westman
Panbari, Nepal
report
Huey/Slawinski/Welsted
K6 West, Karakoram, Pakistan
report
Johnson/Johnson
Mount Hayes, Alaska
report
Kellogg/Gottlieb
Lunag Ri, Nepal
report
Dempster/Kennedy/Novak
Tahu Rutum and Kunyang Chhish East, Karakoram, Pakistan
report
2012
Libecki
Frank Josef Land, Russia
report
Helander/Vincik/Westman
Golgotha, Revelation Mountains, Alaska
report
Burdick/Frieh/West
Middle Peak, Saint Elias Range, Alaska
report
Pennings/Opp/Wharton
Latok I, Karakoram, Pakistan
report
Bennett/Herrington/Zimmerman
Tahu Rutum, Karakoram, Pakistan
report
Dempster/Kennedy
K7 and Ogre II, Karakoram, Pakistan
report
Su/Dongdong/Peng
Sanlian Peak, Sichuan, China
report
2011
Dempster/Cordes/Kennedy
Charakusa, Pakistan
report
Haley/Artun
Karakoram, Pakistan
report
Johnson/Wharton
Canadian Rockies
report
Wheelock/Marin
Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
report
Su/Miller/Chabot
Hispar Sar, Karakoram, Pakistan
report
2010
Haley/Artun
Mt. Foraker, Alaska
report
Caton/Olson/Rutherford
Tasermiut Fjord, Greenland
report
Puryear/Gottlieb
Karjiang, Tibet
report
Adamson/Tuttle
Moose's Tooth, Alaska
report
Grohne/Huey
Siguniang, China
report
Johnson/Kellog
Seerdengpu, Tibet
report
2009
Helander/Holden
Revelation Range, Alaska
Martinello/Kay/Sinnes
Mount Bute, BC, Canada
Haley/Wharton/Johnson
North Ridge of Latok I, Pakistan
Beckner/Anderson/Spaulding
East Face of El Lonko, Argentine Patagonia
2008
Johnson/Magro
Mendenhall Towers, Alaska
McGee/White
Southeast Rib of Mount Logan
Decaria/Smith
Kedar Dome, India
Mahoney/Gilmore/Wilkinson
Kangtega, Nepal
Anderson/House/Prezelj
Makalu, Pakistan
Turner
South Tower of Paine, Argentine Patagonia
2007
Haley/Brown
SW Pillar of Ultar Sar
Menard/Turgeon
North Face of K6
Wharton/Bowers
North Ridge of Latok I
Richards/Walsh/Ruddy
Southeast Face of Huantsan
Wilkinson/Glimore/Doucette
South Face of The Fin
2006
Turgeon/Menard
North Face of K6
Walsh/McSorley/Relph/Lussier
East Peak of Baintha Brakk (aka The Ogre)
Benowitz/Brown
North Face of Peak 10,910
Libecki/Libecki
Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan
Fraser/Olson
Southeast Face of Sunrise Spire
Easton/Owens
North/Northwest Face of Mt. Hickson
2005
Anderson/House
Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat
Nott/Varco
Southeast Face of Kamet
Caldwell/Kemple/Stack
West Face of Mount Thor
 
Cordes/Wharton
North Face of Huascaran Norte/
West Face of Taulliraju
Isaac/Owens
North Face of Kichatna Spire
2004
Geisler/Withers/Edgar Shjingu Charpa's N. Ridge
Mahoney/Gilmore East Face Mooses Tooth
Belczynski/Tomaszewski Meru Central  
Anderson/Grez/Herlihy/Selda Avellano Towers
Sarnquist/Cooney East Face Mt. Dan Beard  
2003
House/Przelj/Cartwright N. Face Masherbrum
Mitrovich/Haden S. Face Changabang
Chabot/Miller/Anker Meru Shark's Fin
Wharton/Dobbins S. Face Kichatna  
Isaac/Semple W. Face North Howser Tower
2002
Libecki Fjords of E. Greenland
Cordes/DeCapio S. Face Denali
Frimer/Berube Cordillera Huayhuash
Maddaloni/Kelly Meru Shark's Fin
Millar/Edwards W. Face Swachand
2001
Westman/Benowitz/Puryear/Turiano Kichatana Spire
Copp/Pennings W. Face Pierre Giorgio  
Davis/Offenbacher N. Ridge Shingu Charpa
Issac/Decapio SE Face Kizil Asker
Bearzi/Miller E. Face Gyachung  
2000
Cordes/DeCapio E. Face Mount Dickey
Shaw/Wagner Mount Hunter  
House/Garibotti/Twight E. Face Foraker  
Smart/O'Neill W. Ridge Trango Tower  
Libecki/Mitrovich/Helling Kok Shaal Tau Mtns.  
1999
Buhler Menlungtse/Milarepa  
Geisler/Culbert S. Face Huandot South  
Chabot/Jackson Mt. Johnson  
1998
Beckwith Team Kizil-Asker
Briggs/Reichert Unamed in E. Greenland
Hollinger/Easton S. Face Cerro Torre
Josephson/House King Peak
Roberts/Bearzi NW Face Devil's Thumb
1997
Ogden/Spitzer/Benegas' N. Face Jannu
Donahue/Gribble/Monks/Ofsanko Khyrgistan
Isaac/Taylor Mount Flap Top
House/Swenson NW Fave Denali
1996
Collum/Child/Boyd/Foweraker SE Face Shipton Spire
Synnott/Hollinger/ Chapman N. Face Polar Sun Spire
Ryan/Adams/Young SE Face Mount Proboscis
Maser/Wolf Mount Miller
Hair/Pereyra Auyen Tepui
1995
Quinlan/Anderson W. Face Bhagirathi IV 1/2
Oxx/Middendorf Polar Sun Spire
Gagner/Lovelace NW Face Kiguti
Diedrich/Pilling Alverstone/Hubbard
Reichart/Heaton Devil's Thumb/Burkett Needle
Rowe/Brooks S. Face Kichatna Spire
1994
Buhler/Kurtyka/Wielicki W. Face K2
Breemer/Jarrett E. Face Shield
Powers/Collins SW Face Denali
Byerly/Pennings E. Face Mt. Nevermore
Twight/Backes Mt. Hunter/Mt. Foraker