Transient

The Mugs Stump Award is given annually to climbers attempting alpine climbing objectives that exemplify fast, light and clean tactics. The awards are a tribute to the late Mugs Stump, one of North America’s most prolific and visionary climbers, who died in a crevasse fall in Alaska in May 1992.

2012 Mugs Stump Award recipients:

Franz Josef Land, Russia 
Mike Libecki continues his solo visits to the uncharted corners of the mountain world to attempt The Polar Shield. "This wall is at 81 degrees north latitude, only about 580 miles from the North Pole," said Libecki. "This wall is way up there, and can be called the northern-most and most remote big wall on the planet."

Golgotha, Revelation Mountains, Alaska 
Clint Helander, Scotty Vincik and Mark Westman will explore the East Face of this formidable unclimbed peak. "The Revelations have become my maniacal fascination," said Helander, who has made four trips to the range. "They epitomize true wilderness. The terrain is tightly contoured and extremely rugged. There are no guidebooks and little beta."

Middle Peak, Saint Elias Range, Alaska 
Dave Burdick, John Frieh and Zac West will attempt the 5000-foot West Face of this unclimbed peak, which "offers a unique opportunity in a very remote region, one of the less visited areas in the state."

Latok I (7145m), Karakoram, Pakistan 
Mike Pennings, Nate Opp and Josh Wharton will attempt the Northwest Face. "I have now spent more than six months of my life camped below Latok I's north side," said Wharton, who tried various routes on this side of the mountain in 2007, 2008 and 2009. "I have begun to understand it's various moods, and why it routinely defeats some of the world's best alpinists."

Tahu Rutum (6651m), Karakoram, Pakistan 
Scott Bennett, Blake Herrington and Grant Zimmerman will attempt the Northwest Ridge, which the trio calls "a perfect big mountain route... aesthetic, vast, remote, and consistently steep, presenting technical challenges from hard free and wall climbing to steep ice and mixed terrain."

K7 (6935m) and Ogre II (6960m), Karakoram, Pakistan 
Kyle Dempster and Hayden Kennedy will return to the East Face of K7, which they tried in 2011, and then move over to the Choktoi Glacier for the Northeast Face of Ogre II. "The Choktoi has a rich climbing history, contains some of the most impressive mountains in the world, and has a zero percent success rate," said the pair. "We view these components as the basis for a truly motivated expedition."

Sanlian Peak (6684m), Sichuan, China 
Steve Su will join Chinese climbers Yan Dongdong and Zhou Peng for a traverse of the three summits of this unclimbed peak. "I met Yan and Zhou on the recovery mission of my close friend Jonny Copp, who (along with Wade Johnson and Micah Dash) died in an avalanche off of Mt. Edgar in 2009," said Su. "Zhou and Yan were instrumental in that search. Ever since, I had been in touch with them, hoping to one day climb a peak together in China."

These climbers, and all of this year's Mugs Stump Award applicants, share Mugs' vision of climbing as a celebration of boldness, purity and simplicity. Past recipients include both well-known and relatively unheard-of alpinists pursuing objectives in Alaska, Patagonia, the Himalaya, the Rocky Mountains, Greenland and more.

Previous year's winners and brief reports of their trips are listed below:

2011
Dempster/Cordes/Kennedy
Charakusa, Pakistan
report
Haley/Artun
Karakoram, Pakistan
report
Johnson/Wharton
Canadian Rockies
report
Wheelock/Marin
Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
report
Su/Miller/Chabot
Hispar Sar, Karakoram, Pakistan
report
2010
Haley/Artun
Mt. Foraker, Alaska
report
Caton/Olson/Rutherford
Tasermiut Fjord, Greenland
report
Puryear/Gottlieb
Karjiang, Tibet
report
Adamson/Tuttle
Moose's Tooth, Alaska
report
Grohne/Huey
Siguniang, China
report
Johnson/Kellog
Seerdengpu, Tibet
report
2009
Helander/Holden
Revelation Range, Alaska
Martinello/Kay/Sinnes
Mount Bute, BC, Canada
Haley/Wharton/Johnson
North Ridge of Latok I, Pakistan
Beckner/Anderson/Spaulding
East Face of El Lonko, Argentine Patagonia
2008
Johnson/Magro
Mendenhall Towers, Alaska
McGee/White
Southeast Rib of Mount Logan
Decaria/Smith
Kedar Dome, India
Mahoney/Gilmore/Wilkinson
Kangtega, Nepal
Anderson/House/Prezelj
Makalu, Pakistan
Turner
South Tower of Paine, Argentine Patagonia
2007
Haley/Brown
SW Pillar of Ultar Sar
Menard/Turgeon
North Face of K6
Wharton/Bowers
North Ridge of Latok I
Richards/Walsh/Ruddy
Southeast Face of Huantsan
Wilkinson/Glimore/Doucette
South Face of The Fin
2006
Turgeon/Menard
North Face of K6
Walsh/McSorley/Relph/Lussier
East Peak of Baintha Brakk (aka The Ogre)
Benowitz/Brown
North Face of Peak 10,910
Libecki/Libecki
Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan
Fraser/Olson
Southeast Face of Sunrise Spire
Easton/Owens
North/Northwest Face of Mt. Hickson
2005
Anderson/House
Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat
Nott/Varco
Southeast Face of Kamet
Caldwell/Kemple/Stack
West Face of Mount Thor
 
Cordes/Wharton
North Face of Huascaran Norte/
West Face of Taulliraju
Isaac/Owens
North Face of Kichatna Spire
2004
Geisler/Withers/Edgar Shjingu Charpa's N. Ridge
Mahoney/Gilmore East Face Mooses Tooth
Belczynski/Tomaszewski Meru Central  
Anderson/Grez/Herlihy/Selda Avellano Towers
Sarnquist/Cooney East Face Mt. Dan Beard  
2003
House/Przelj/Cartwright N. Face Masherbrum
Mitrovich/Haden S. Face Changabang
Chabot/Miller/Anker Meru Shark's Fin
Wharton/Dobbins S. Face Kichatna  
Isaac/Semple W. Face North Howser Tower
2002
Libecki Fjords of E. Greenland
Cordes/DeCapio S. Face Denali
Frimer/Berube Cordillera Huayhuash
Maddaloni/Kelly Meru Shark's Fin
Millar/Edwards W. Face Swachand
2001
Westman/Benowitz/Puryear/Turiano Kichatana Spire
Copp/Pennings W. Face Pierre Giorgio  
Davis/Offenbacher N. Ridge Shingu Charpa
Issac/Decapio SE Face Kizil Asker
Bearzi/Miller E. Face Gyachung  
2000
Cordes/DeCapio E. Face Mount Dickey
Shaw/Wagner Mount Hunter  
House/Garibotti/Twight E. Face Foraker  
Smart/O'Neill W. Ridge Trango Tower  
Libecki/Mitrovich/Helling Kok Shaal Tau Mtns.  
1999
Buhler Menlungtse/Milarepa  
Geisler/Culbert S. Face Huandot South  
Chabot/Jackson Mt. Johnson  
1998
Beckwith Team Kizil-Asker
Briggs/Reichert Unamed in E. Greenland
Hollinger/Easton S. Face Cerro Torre
Josephson/House King Peak
Roberts/Bearzi NW Face Devil's Thumb
1997
Ogden/Spitzer/Benegas' N. Face Jannu
Donahue/Gribble/Monks/Ofsanko Khyrgistan
Isaac/Taylor Mount Flap Top
House/Swenson NW Fave Denali
1996
Collum/Child/Boyd/Foweraker SE Face Shipton Spire
Synnott/Hollinger/ Chapman N. Face Polar Sun Spire
Ryan/Adams/Young SE Face Mount Proboscis
Maser/Wolf Mount Miller
Hair/Pereyra Auyen Tepui
1995
Quinlan/Anderson W. Face Bhagirathi IV 1/2
Oxx/Middendorf Polar Sun Spire
Gagner/Lovelace NW Face Kiguti
Diedrich/Pilling Alverstone/Hubbard
Reichart/Heaton Devil's Thumb/Burkett Needle
Rowe/Brooks S. Face Kichatna Spire
1994
Buhler/Kurtyka/Wielicki W. Face K2
Breemer/Jarrett E. Face Shield
Powers/Collins SW Face Denali
Byerly/Pennings E. Face Mt. Nevermore
Twight/Backes Mt. Hunter/Mt. Foraker